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'to thine own self be true, and it must follow, as the night the day, thou canst not then be false to any man'
Shakespeare

10th July Pere Pescador to Santa Susana

The tent was packed up extra well for the last time as it could be a long time before it would be used again. It did the job well once fully organised, but in my opinion would be too cramped for two people and I would not like to try and get two bikes into the porch. Leaving Pere Pescador I passed through beautiful country scenery, small quiet country roads bordered by bamboo hedges and fields of sunflowers and orchards. sleepy villages such as Ventallo and Vilopriu. On a small road I had a picnic beside a field of sunflowers; there was not a car or sound. This is the real Spain away from any tourist influence. I dozed off for a while and wakened surrounded by ants carrying away the crumbs and cheese I dropped.

I rejoined the national road for Girona then came off on the C65 where I joined the bicyle path which runs the whole way to the coast. While this path was quite attractive going through farmland and forest, the surface in places was quite rough and it was slow to make up ground so I came off it at Llagostera. Here I had to go on to a newly built motorway for seven miles which was not on my map, and rejoined the national road at Vidreres. The next twenty miles was to be among the worst of the whole trip as there was a strong headwind and long uphill drags one after the other. It was a real relief to see the first sign for Santa Susana a beach resort beside Malgrat de Mar.
Cycling up to the front doors of the hotel onabrava past the packed swimming pool and going straight to the bar for a cool pint was a memorable experience!
64 miles
Have a look at the map and more photos here

9th July Torreilles plage to Pere Pescador

The wind was light early in the morning but still in favour and the journey on down the coast was pleasant passing by various beach resorts, st marie plage, canet plage, st Cyprien plage; all the time the pyrenees grew in size and knowing how hard this rig was to push over mountains I was a little fearful. I arrived at the foothills to the town Argeles sur Mer. Here I met Andreas; it was like he was stopped waiting for me 'follow me I'll show you the best way through the town and the best way up the mountain. I know it like the back of my hand' At one point two litres of water went flying off the back of my bike to the other side of the road and Andreas jumped off and stopped all traffic to retreive them.
He was from Cologne in Germany staying in the town on hols with his family and talked about the times he went cycle touring with his wife years ago three months at a time. He was looking forward to start it again after the children grew up.
The climbing proper starts at Port Vendres rises steeply and descends to Banyuls sur Mer, then rises again for a few miles and descends again to the border town of Cerbere.
Up to this point the form was good and the climbs not as bad as expected; but the worst was still to come. At Cerbere I ate at an outdoor restaurant in the centre and chatted to an elderly Dutch couple who took some photos.
From Cerbere the road again rises steeply for a couple of miles to the Spanish border where the views are breathtaking.
There is also surprisingly little traffic on this road. Again the road descends to sea level to the town of Port Bou. At the tourist office I was given the advice to go the old road or route ancien out of town and not the tunnels. This turned out to be crazy advice (unless I picked her up wrong) as the old road climbed right over the top of the mountain through endless loups and hairpins. Not another car or person did I meet on this road in three quarters of and hour of climbing. Even after descending this one there were more climbs out of Colera and out of Llanca. By this stage every last bit of energy was sapped from me and I sat at a roadside cafe and downed two cans of aquarush.

The target was to reach Pera Pescador and one consolation was the land here was completely flat and through lovely countryside and after the town of Castello d'Empuries through a national park Parc Natural Dels Aiguamolls de l'emporda. By this time the wind had changed to the south and would stay so for the rest of the journey. Saint Pere Pescador was a popular camping resort with mostly Dutch and Germans. Again I checked out a couple of campsites and chose one beside the tourist office camping Riu Here I treated myself to an Indian massage part of the campsite service. The facilities here were top class and indeed the quality of the campsites seemed to get better and better from I left Nice. By this stage I had perfected the camping experience packing and unpacking in half the time with everything in its own proper place. To do the whole thing smoothly while staying clean and comfortable really required to be organised like a soldier with a good work rate off the bike and early to bed early to rise.
67 miles
Have a look at the map and more photos here

8th July marseillan plage to torreilles plage

Today was expected to be the least interesting day of the trip and with the mistral blowing behind me it was a chance to get good miles up on the main road. The first part was headwind to Beziers with a few long uphill drags.
At Narbonne I went straight through the centre, a very attractive city where a stage of the Tour de France would finish a week later. After this the road was direct south and though there were plenty of long uphill drags the wind was blowing strong behind me making for very easy cycling. I came off the N9 where it joined the D627 heading back to the coast at Leucate plage and continued on down the coast to Torreilles plage. Really I should have went on further and took advantage of the tailwind, but I liked this place and decided to stay. I checked out the four campsites all beside each other and went back to the first one camping trivoly which charged 22 euro and the staff were the most freindly; some of the bigger campsites I found not only very expensive but very impersonable.
The pyrenees were now visible in the distance about 20 miles away; off to bed early as tomorrow was expected to be a tough day.
75 miles

7th July saint marie de la mer to marseillan plage

During the night there was a shower which left the tent wet and had to be dried with a towel before packing. It was pleasant leaving Saint Marie on the flat country roads; the road is lined with stud farms stocking the traditional white horses of the Camargue. These horses run wild in the fields along with wild black bulls.
There was a change in wind direction today as the Mistral had started to blow from the north and would continue for the next couple of days.
Leaving the Camargue area around Aigues Mortes the scenery changes to vineyards, very beautiful countryside and easy cycling. I stopped at some of the fruit stalls at the side of the road and enjoyed the fresh fruit straight off the farm especially the juicy nectarines. The weather was again becoming very hot and there were a lot of bikes on the road.
I took the beachfront cyclepath from la grand motte to Carnon plage but as I was making no headway I headed for the main road away from the coast towards Montpelier. The cycling around Montpelier arterial routes was unpleasant with heavy traffic and no cycle lanes.

At Sete I headed off the arterial route to the city centre; I found it always to be better to go straight through a city rather than cycle the busy arterial routes around it. City centres can be attractive and have no lorry traffic. At the tourist office in Sete I was advised that the best place to camp was Marseillan plage ten miles down the coast. On the road to it they are building a new beach complete with new cycle track.
Marseillan was indeed a very busy resort and anywhere advertising 'chambres' were full with a queue at the door. The big camping sites were charging 40euros which I would not pay to sleep in a tent; I found one at 20euros, no pool or restaurant but all these facilities were nearby. The staff at the campsite, 'camping pisse saumes' were very freindly.
66 miles
Have a look at the map and more photos here

6th july la rove to saint marie de la mer

Today I would try and follow a bicycle routeI spotted on the website bikely.com which goes through the Camargue national park to the town St Marie de la Mer. There would be no breakfast at the motel as they didn't open until lunch time so the first 10 mile I did on an empty stomach but it was entirely downhill to the harbour village of Carry le Rouet where I had open air breakfast.
Here I met an elderly cyclist, Ricco, who would cycle with me for the next ten miles and showed me the scenic route through Sausset les Pins and the climb towards Martiques. During that time he spoke to me nonstop all in French knowing that I didn't understand most, but continually referred to 'vin rose' he was fond of. From Martiques I took a detour of five miles to Istres to avoid a busy road and from there the roads would be completely flat for the rest of the day. It was also pleasant cycling as the weather was much cooler with a slight south east breeze. Following the signs for the village Salin de Giraud I had to cross the Grand Rhone in a ferry which was full of tourists heading for the Camargue. From the village I followed quiet country roads towards 'Digue de la Mer' a sea dyke which I was advised was just about cyclable with my roadbike.

The first few miles of the dyke was very rough and some of it had to be walked but I had loads of time as I had made good ground earlier, and I enjoyed the quietness and the views of the flamingos wading in the water. After the point where cars were no longer allowed the surface improved and I arrived at the lighthouse 'Phare de la Gauchelle' where I spoke for a while with lady ornothologist who was doing govermnent research for the weekend.
The remaining 15km of the path was fine apart from a couple of long stretches where sand had blown in and I had to push the bike through it. This path is really a mountain bike job amd I was glad I made it through without problems and the mavic kysriumss had no buckles. The path ended in a long beachfront with rows and rows of campervans up to a thousand of them mostly Dutch and German. The campsite 'Camping de la Brise' was nearby and had excellent facilities all for 9 euros. Here I spent an hour cleaning the sand of the bike and had it looking like new.
66 miles
Have a look at the map and more photos here

Irish proverb: 'is minic a bhionn cu mall sona'...'It is often that the slow hound is happy'

5th July Cavalaire sur mer to Le Rove

The climb out of Cavalaire sur Mer was a shock first thing in the morning. Anywhere the road left the coast on the map even a little bit meant a severe climb. After reaching the little town of Cavaliere after about ten miles, I joined a well maintained cycle route which was to last for the next 30 miles some of it through forest well away from the main road. Several cyclists stopped to chat along this route offering support and encouragement shouting 'bon route'.
It was again very hot well into the 30's and the climb out of Lavandou was severe, but the road flattened out then there was a steady headwind coming in off sea around Hyeres and Carqueiranne one of those boring stretches of road you just had to put the head down and keep going to get through it.
The cycle route took me right into Toulon centre but left me going round in a circle trying to find my route out. I asked a gendarme for directions and he mentioned 'la gare'. I had it in my head during the day to take the train to Marseilles as this was a mountainous stretch and Marseilles I knew would be difficult to cross, so once the gendarme mentioned train station I went for it.
At the station I had two porters carry my rig down the steps and three hours later I was getting off the train in St Charles station in Marseilles. Well worth the 10 euros to cut out the most awkward part of the route. Finding my way from the station was not that difficult although it would be five miles of cycling along busy arterial routes before I would be out of the city. Again the road left the coast and started to climb until I met a tunnel with heavy traffic. I stopped to put on a taillight and had to cycle up the 3ft wide shoulder which was covered with grit. Half way through I became blinded because of the light effect and couldn't even see the foot high kerb to my right. This was the most dangerous time I've ever been on a bike as there was heavy traffic and some lorries; to play safe I really should have walked the narrow footpath at the side of the tunnel. The road climbed endlessly for miles towards le Rove.
Three quarters way up there was a small roadhouse or motel and pizzeria 'chez fanny'. There was a small room available with bathroom basic but clean with a big double bed which I collapsed onto in absolute bliss steam rising from all parts of me. It was good value at 40euro and only available as it was not a tourist area. After a shower, a pizza, a couple of pints, and a great nights sleep I was as good as new.
51 miles cycled
Have a look at the map and more photos here

4th July Villeneuve Loubet to Cavalaire sur Mer

As would be the norm for the week ahead I got up at 6.15 and packed up for the road. This takes an hour to do properly and by the time I have breakfast it is eight o'clock. As always it is nice setting off in the cool of the morning but the sun doesn't be long burning and today would be very hot. The road to Antibes was busy in the rush hour but I had no real problem and was given the room.
I diverted to Juan le Pins beach to view the yachts at the marina and followed the path through to Cannes where I stopped for a while and watched the limousines pull up at the Carelton Hotel. It was early morning and the beach was packed; here I had a hot dog and coffee. Following these beach cycle paths was enjoyable but as they weave their way around the little harbours, you make ground very slowly.

At Theoule sur mer there is the first climb and change to more mountainous terrain, thought not too severe I still had to use my lowest gears. The beach front at Frejus was thronged with tourists with a market on opposite the beach; I stopped for another snack. After Frejus a cycle track went for a few miles and after Saint Maxime the track went to the opposite side of the road all the way to St Tropez. This was a problem as I had to cross back over through five lanes of heavy traffic and negotiate a busy junction to get on to the D559 for Cavalaire. Not for the faint hearted but again I found the traffic gave me the road and throughout the whole seven day journey never came accross one aggressive driver. In fact quite the opposite as I was given friendly horns and waves, one even stopping to offer me water.

In the afternoon heat the climb up to Croix Valmer really got to me. I had to rest in the shade three quarters way up and had a long chat with a local ex cyclist who told me of his adventures when in his youth. At Cavalaire sur Mer, another beach resort there was another brutal climb to the campsite cros de mouton'Ah, you must be Mr Donnelly', the smiling Dutch lady at reception said ' We don't get many cyclists come up here; you can see why' It was worth it though, as it had all the facilities, the pool I spent an hour in, the restaurant, the bar. The only problem was the hard ground for pitching leaving me to resort to tying the guy ropes to stones and the surrounding trees. It became quite windy in the night but the tent held up well.
64 miles
Have a look at the map and more photos here

3rd July Belfast to Villeneuve Loubet

The rain came down that heavily all morning that the plane was delayed and such a relief to board for a sunnier climate. The bike came off the plane in Nice in it's soaking wet box and the plan was to taxi to the campsite 4 miles away in Villeneuve loubet. However I was not going to pay the 50 euros the taxi men were looking for thinking I was stuck, so I had to build the bike up outside the airport. After all the checklisting two vital screws for the front carrier were missing and two had to be taken from the back carrier.
It would be 200 miles before these were replaced.
There is a new cycle track from the airport but difficult to follow for the first mile as there are missing sections. Exit from the airport to the first roundabout take a left and keep going straight to the route de bord de la mer a wide cycle track along the seaside full of roller skaters.
The campsite parc des maurettes was easily found but disappointing as there was no restaurant and the pool was closed, but just as well I booked it as it was completely full. I had not a great experience camping here and everything ended in an unorganised heap; it was to take a few nights to organise myself and fine tune the camping experience.
4 miles

Equipment and preparation

The whole trip was not decided upon or booked until six weeks previous; in fact it was conceived on a Sunday afternoon and booked the following morning! This meant a lot of preparation in a very short time and cycling was stepped up to 160 miles a week for the following five weeks.
The touring bike I had for a year or so was made up of an aluminium aeron frame with a 105 chainset compact double on front and 27 on rear; I just about got away with this in the mountains. Wheels were Mavic kysrium elites, not exactly made for touring or off road but performed perfectly and remained true.
After a tyre fitting session with a freind in a garage one night trying out many types of tyres I decided on Schwalbe blizzards for their ease of popping on and off the rim, no levers needed.
For luggage I bought the complete set of carradice super c: front and back panniers and bar bag, some of it I managed to get second hand, though the new rear panniers have the superior klik fix system for easy detachment, very handy. The front panniers really help to balance the bike and the bar bag can be easily detached and used as a shoulder bag.

For camping I decided on the wild country duolite tourer specially made for cycle camping. Though it weighs 2.8 kilos it has a large porch where the bike can easily fit and better if the front wheel is removed. I did find this tent quite small and really during the trip was only used for sleeping in though it was easily erected and fitted inside a pannier. For a mattress I had a thermarest and a lightweiht sleeping bag. Everything went inside the panniers including tent. Total weight of the luggage was 15 kilos and the bike inside its cardboad box which inlcuded tools weighed 16 kilos at the airport, so without the box the whole rig was just under 30kilos on the road.